Ngaba ziSkinny kangakanani iiMannequins zaseVenkile?

Umxholo

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Ubudlelwane befashoni kunye nomfanekiso womzimba yinto eyaziwayo entsonkothileyo. Iingxoxo ezijikeleze lo mba zihlala zibhekisa kwiingxaki ezifana nokuxhaphaka kweemodeli ezibhityileyo kakhulu kwindlela yeenqwelo-moya nakwimikhankaso yentengiso. Kodwa le mifanekiso iyingozi ngamanye amaxesha ijongana nathi kwiimeko zehlabathi lokwenyani, kananjalo, kwaye bekukho incoko malunga neevenkile zemannequins, ezihlala zibhitye ngakumbi kunobungakanani 2 obuqhelekileyo phakathi kweemodeli. Iimpawu ezifana neTopshop kunye neOasis ziye zatsha kulo nyaka ngenxa yokusebenzisa kwabo ii-mannequins ezibhityileyo; Aba bathengisi base-Bhritane baziphendulile izikhalazo, kodwa iivenkile ezigcina indawo yokugcina izinto kwihlabathi liphela zisebenzisa imiboniso yeefestile ezinemilinganiselo yomzimba engekho ngqiqweni.

Ngoku ka UMgcini, "umndilili" we-mannequin elinganiselwa kwiimitha ezintandathu ubude, nge-intshi ezingama-34, isinqe esine-intshi ezingama-24, kunye nesinqe esine-intshi ezingama-34, namathole amxinwa kakhulu, amaqatha nezihlahla. Ngokungathandabuzekiyo, yinto ekude ukusuka kwi-avareji ye-American yaseMelika isayizi ye-14 yokwakha (leyo, ngokutsho kubathengisi abaninzi abafana no-J.Crew, ilingana ne-40.5-intshi ye-bust, i-33-intshi esinqeni, kunye ne-hips ye-intshi engama-43).

Ke kutheni umahluko omkhulu phakathi kweefestile zevenkile kunye nenyani? Ngokutsho kweengcali, oku kungafani kubilisa ukuthengisa ngokuthe ngqo. Kanye njengeemodeli ezibhityileyo ezityibilika ezantsi kumgaqo weenqwelo-moya, injongo yemannequins kukuthengisa iphupha. UKathleen Hammond, i-VP ye-akhawunti yeqhinga kwi-New York mannequin distributor Goldsmith, wachaza ukuba iivenkile zithenga uhlobo lwe-mannequins abakholelwa ukuba baya kuthengisa eyona mpahla. Iimodeli ezihamba ngenqwelomoya zi-2 okanye ubungakanani 0, utshilo."Ezi mannequins zilinganisa loo [nxalenye], kuba abathengisi bakholelwa ukuba yenza imveliso yabo ibonakale intle." Kungakhathaliseki ukuba oku kuyinyaniso kusini na, kukho isilumkiso esibalulekileyo: Ngamalungu azo abhityileyo, imizimba egudileyo, kunye nemilenze emide, le mifanekiso iqingqiweyo ingenabuso ayibonakali njengabantu bokwenene konke konke. Isithethi se-Oasis sisebenzise loo mbono njengesiqinisekiso seedummies zayo ezinempikiswano kwi-Refinery29 ekuqaleni kwale nyanga. "Iivenkile zethu zemannequins zenziwe ngesitayile esikhulu ukumela ipropu yobugcisa kwaye azikho naziphi na iinzame zokubonisa ngokuchanekileyo ubungakanani bobomi," utshilo.

Nangona i-mannequins ayinakuze idideke nabantu bokwenyani, isengumboniso weempahla, umthengisi kunye nomthengi ofanelekileyo. Njengoko u-Lisa Mauer wenkampani ye-mannequin u-Siegal & Stockman ebeka, "Ufuna i-mannequin yakho ibonise isimo sengqondo sokuba ufuna ukuba ngubani othenga kuwe."

UMauer ukwathetha ngamagcisa anje ngo-Alberto Giacometti kunye nemifanekiso yakhe eqingqiweyo eyaziwayo ephefumlelweyo. Kwaye ukuba ucinga ukuba i-mannequins kufuneka ibhitye kubasebenzi bokuthengisa ukuze bakwazi ukuyinxiba, akunjalo. Bobabini uHammond noMauer bayilahlile ingcamango yokuba ubukhulu be-mannequin buchaphazela ukusebenza okusisiseko. "I-Mannequins yeza ngendlela efanayo, ke ayisiyongxaki ukuba zinkulu okanye zincinci kangakanani-i-mannequin yobukhulu obahlukileyo iyahluka ngendlela eqhelekileyo," ucacisa uHammond. Nangona kunjalo, zikhona izibonelelo ezimbalwa eziphambili zokubaxwa kwemannequins. Ukuma kwabo ngokubanzi kunye nemilenze emide (ihlala igotyiwe kancinci) igcina ibhulukhwe ekudibaneni ezantsi. Ngaphezu koko, le mizimba mide ithanda ukujongeka ingcono kumbono wabathengi, oqhele ukuba phezulu okanye ngezantsi.

Ngokwenqaku elipapashwe yi Smithsonian Magazine ngo-1991, ii-mannequins ziye zancipha ngokufana nabantu kule minyaka idlulileyo. Kungekudala emva kokuba i-mannequin yokuqala yomzimba wonke yaziswa eFrance ngo-1870, nezinye iivenkile zalandela ngokufanayo. Ngasekupheleni kweminyaka ye-19 kunye nasekuqaleni kwenkulungwane yama-20, ezi modeli zaphambi kokugcina zayilwa zinee-wax ezijongeka ngokwenyani, kwaye zazineenkcukacha ezinje ngamehlo eglasi kunye neewigi (kwaye kwezinye iimeko, nkqu namazinyo obuxoki). Kwada kwaba ngoo-1920 xa umenzi wemannequin uSiegel & Stockman baqalisa ukusebenzisa i-paper-mache (endaweni yemathiriyeli yangaphambili efana nomthi kunye newax) apho iimpawu zaba yinto engabonakaliyo. Kwezi ntsuku, iimannequins zenziwa ngokwemathiriyeli njengeplastiki kunye ne-fiberglass, kwaye ubuso bazo bugudiswe ngaphandle kweempawu zokwahlula-ukuba zineentloko kwaphela.

Kodwa kunjalo, ukuba iimodeli ezinobungakanani obuphakathi zithengisa iimpahla ezininzi, kwaye injongo ye-mannequins kukuguqula inzuzo, ngoko kutheni ungawamkeli "umyinge" womfazi we-mannequin? Kubonakala kusisiyatha ngakumbi, kuthathelwa ingqalelo ukuba abathengisi abaninzi bayandisile iminikelo yabo ukuya kuthi ga kubungakanani be-4XL -kodwa besala ukwamkela isiseko sabathengi kwiifestile zabo. Imifanekiso egciniweyo isetyenziselwe ukwenza iinkcazo malunga nobufazi, isini, kunye nomfanekiso womzimba kwixesha elidlulileyo, kodwa ngaphandle kwamanye amaphulo abalulekileyo, i-mannequins ephakathi imbalwa kwaye iphakathi.

UMauer uyitshintshele kwinto yokuba zininzi kakhulu iintlobo zomzimba ezahlukileyo zokumela. Nangona yena (kunye noHammond) bobabini bekhawuleza ukubonisa ukuba iimodeli ezincinci kunye nezikhulu zithengiswa kubathengisi, ukuba neqela lama-mannequins angalinganiyo yeyona ndlela isebenzayo yokuthengisa. “Njengakwindlela yokubaleka, kufuneka ube nokufana,” utshilo uMauer. "Kuya kuba kuhle ukuba zonke iintlobo zomzimba zimele, kodwa ngenxa yendawo encinci evenkileni, ukufana kubalulekile kumyalezo ovelayo." Kuhleli ukuba kubonwe ukuba ukwamkelwa kwabafazi abanamandla apheleleyo kumgaqo wokubaleka nakwimikhankaso kuya kuguqulela kumgangatho wentengiso. Kodwa ngabathengisi abatsha, njengevenkile yesebe laseSweden i-Åhléns, ukukhupha ngempumelelo i-mannequins enobungakanani, nantsi ithemba lokuba ezinye iimveliso ziyaqhekeka kwisikhunta (ngokoqobo) kwaye zilandele ngokufanelekileyo.

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