Yonke into ekufuneka uyazi ngokuSebenzisa iiAlpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

Umxholo

• 1. Banceda ukukhupha
• Zama oku
• 2. Zinceda zikhanye ngokubonakalayo kwesikhumba
• Zama oku
• 3. Banceda ukukhuthaza ukuveliswa kwe-collagen
• Zama oku
• 4. Zinceda ukunciphisa ukubonakala kwemigca yomphezulu kunye nemibimbi
• Zama oku
• 5. Zikhuthaza ukuhamba kwegazi kolusu
• Zama oku
• 6. Banceda ukunciphisa kunye nokulungisa umbala
• Zama oku
• 7. Zinceda ekunyangeni nasekuthinteleni amabala
• Zama oku
• 8. Banceda ukwandisa ukufakwa kwemveliso
• Zama oku
• Yimalini i-AHA efunekayo?
• Ngaba iziphumo ebezingalindelekanga zinokwenzeka?
• Nguwuphi umahluko phakathi kwe-AHA kunye ne-BHA?
• Thelekisa ngokukhawuleza
  
• Umgca wezantsi

Sibandakanya iimveliso esicinga ukuba ziluncedo kubafundi bethu. Ukuba uthenga amakhonkco kweli phepha, sinokufumana ikhomishini encinci. Nantsi inkqubo yethu.

Yintoni ii-AHAs?

IAlfa-hydroxy acids (AHAs) liqela lezityalo kunye nee-asidi ezivela kwizilwanyana ezisetyenziswa kwimveliso ezahlukeneyo zolusu. Oku kubandakanya iimveliso zemihla ngemihla ezichasene nokwaluphala, ezinje ngeeserum, iitoni, kunye neekhrim, kunye nonyango olujolise ngamanye amaxesha ngokusebenzisa iichemical peels.

Kukho iindidi ezisixhenxe ze-AHAs ezisetyenziswa rhoqo kwiimveliso ezikhoyo kumzi mveliso wokukhathalela ulusu. Oku kubandakanya:

• i-citric acid (ukusuka kwiziqhamo zesitrasi)
• i-glycolic acid (iswekile)
• i-hydroxycaproic acid (evela kwijeli yasebukhosini)
• i-hydroxycaprylic acid (evela kwizilwanyana)
• i-lactic acid (ukusuka kwi-lactose okanye ezinye ii-carbohydrate)
• i-malic acid (kwiziqhamo)
• i-tartaric acid (evela kwiidiliya)

Uphando ngokusetyenziswa kunye nokusebenza kwe-AHAs lubanzi. Nangona kunjalo, kuzo zonke ii-AHAs ezikhoyo, i-glycolic kunye ne-lactic acid zezona kwaye ziphandwe kakuhle. Ezi zimbini ze-AHA nazo zinokubangela ukucaphuka. Ngenxa yoku, uninzi lwe-counter-counter (OTC) i-AHAs iqulethe i-glycolic okanye i-lactic acid.

Ii-AHAs zisetyenziselwa ukukhupha. Banokunceda:

• khuthaza i-collagen kunye nokuhamba kwegazi
• ukulungiswa kombala ngokuchanekileyo kumabala kunye neminyaka yobudala
• ukuphucula ukubonakala kwemigca yomphezulu kunye nemibimbi
• kuthintela ukugqabhuka kwamabala
• khanyisa ibala lakho
• ukwandisa ukufunxeka kwemveliso

1. Banceda ukukhupha

Ii-AHAs zisetyenziselwa ukukhupha ulusu lwakho. Ngapha koko, esi sisiseko sazo zonke izibonelelo ezinikezelwa yi-AHAs.

Ukukhutshwa komzimba kubhekisa kwinkqubo apho iiseli zolusu kumphezulu zichithakele. Oku kunceda ukususa iiseli zolusu olufileyo kodwa kukwenze indlela yokuvelisa iiseli zolusu.

Njengoko uneminyaka yobudala, umjikelo weseli weseli yakho uyacothisa, onokwenza iiseli zolusu olufileyo zakhe. Xa uneeseli zolusu ezininzi ezifileyo kakhulu, zinokuqokelelana kwaye zenze ukuba ibala lakho libonakale limfiliba.

Ukuqokelelwa kweeseli zolusu olufileyo nako kunokonyusa eminye imiba yolusu, efana nale:

• imibimbi
• amabala obudala
• induna

Okwangoku, ayizizo zonke ii-AHAs ezinamandla afanayo okukhupha. Isixa sokukhutshwa ngaphandle simiselwa luhlobo lwe-AHA oyisebenzisayo. Njengomthetho wesithupha, ii-AHA ezingaphezulu eziqulathwe kwimveliso, zinamandla okuba neziphumo zokukhupha.

Zama oku

Ukufumana ukhuphelo olunamandla ngakumbi, zama i-Peel Performance AP25 nge-Exuviance. Eli cwecwe liqulethe i-glycolic acid kwaye inokusetyenziswa ukuya kuthi ga kwiveki ezimbini kwiziphumo ezilungileyo. Unokuthathela ingqalelo yonke imihla i-AHA exfoliant, efana nale yokuthambisa yemihla ngemihla nguNonie waseBeverly Hills.

2. Zinceda zikhanye ngokubonakalayo kwesikhumba

Xa ezi asidi zikhupha ulusu lwakho, iiseli zolusu olufileyo ziyaqhekeka. Ulusu olutsha olutyhilwe ngaphantsi luyakhanya ngakumbi. Ii-AHAs ezine-glycolic acid zinokunceda ukuphula ingqokelela yeseli, ngelixa iimveliso ezine-citric acid zinokuqaqambisa ulusu lwakho ngakumbi.

Zama oku

Ukufumana izibonelelo zemihla ngemihla, zama i-AHA kaMario Badescu kunye neCeramide Moisturizer. Iqulethe i-citric acid kunye ne-aloe vera gel yokuqaqamba kunye neziphumo zokuthomalalisa. Ijusi yobuhle i-Apple Green Peel Amandla apheleleyo anokusetyenziswa ukuya kuthi ga kabini ngeveki ukuhambisa ulusu olukhanyayo ngee-AHA ezintathu ezahlukeneyo.

3. Banceda ukukhuthaza ukuveliswa kwe-collagen

I-Collagen yifayibha etyebile ngeprotein enceda ukugcina ulusu lwakho lutyebile kwaye ligudile. Njengoko uneminyaka yobudala, le micu iyaqhekeka. Umonakalo welanga unokukhawulezisa ukutshatyalaliswa kwe-collagen. Oku kungakhokelela kwisallow, ukugoba kolusu.

I-Collagen ngokwayo ikuluhlu oluphakathi kwesikhumba sakho (dermis). Xa uluhlu oluphezulu (i-epidermis) lususwe, iimveliso ezinje nge-AHAs zinokuya kusebenza kwiderm. Ii-AHAs zinokunceda ukukhuthaza imveliso ye-collagen ngokutshabalalisa ii-collagen fibers ezindala ukwenza indlela entsha.

Zama oku

Ukunyusa i-collagen, zama u-Andalou Naturals 'Pumpkin Honey Glycolic Mask.

4. Zinceda ukunciphisa ukubonakala kwemigca yomphezulu kunye nemibimbi

Ii-AHAs ziyaziwa ngenxa yeempembelelo ezichasene nokuguga, kwaye imigca yomphezulu ayikho ngaphandle.Omnye uxele ukuba amavolontiya ali-9 kwali-10 asebenzise ii-AHAs kwisithuba seeveki ezintathu afumene ukuphucuka okubonakalayo kulusu ngokubanzi.

Okwangoku, kubalulekile ukuba ukhumbule ukuba ii-AHA zisebenza kwimigca yomphezulu kunye nemibimbi kuphela, hayi imibimbi enzulu. Iifiller zobuchwephesha ezivela kugqirha, kunye nezinye iinkqubo ezinje ngokuveliswa kwe-laser, kuphela kweendlela ezisebenza imibimbi enzulu.

Zama oku

Zama le glycolic acid serum yemihla ngemihla ngoKhathalelo lweLusu lweAlpha ukunciphisa ukubonakala kwemigca yomphezulu kunye nemibimbi. Ungasebenzisa i-moisturizer ye-AHA, enje ngeNeoStrata's Face Cream Plus AHA 15.

5. Zikhuthaza ukuhamba kwegazi kolusu

Ii-AHAs zinezinto ezichasayo ezinokunceda ukukhuthaza ukuhamba kwegazi kulusu. Oku kunokunceda ukulungisa umbala obala, opholileyo. Ukuhamba kwegazi okufanelekileyo kukwaqinisekisa ukuba iiseli zolusu zifumana izakhamzimba eziyimfuneko ngeeseli ezibomvu ze-oxygen.

Zama oku

Ukuphucula ulusu olucekeceke kunye nokusilela okunxulumene neoksijini, zama le serum yemihla ngemihla kuBuhle boNcedo lokuQala.

6. Banceda ukunciphisa kunye nokulungisa umbala

Umngcipheko wokuguqulwa kwesikhumba ukwanda kunye nobudala. Umzekelo, amabala amdaka asicaba, aziwa njengamabala amadala (lentigines), anokukhula ngenxa yokukhanya kwelanga. Bavame ukukhula kwiindawo zomzimba ezichazwe elangeni kakhulu, njengesifuba sakho, izandla kunye nobuso.

Ukuchithwa kombala kunokubangela ukuba:

• imelasma
• Ukudumba kwasemva kokudumba
• amabala amabala

Ii-AHAs zikhuthaza ingeniso yeseli yolusu. Iiseli zolusu ezintsha zinombala ngokulinganayo. Kwithiyori, ukusetyenziswa kwexesha elide kwee-AHAs kunokunciphisa ukubola kwesikhumba ngokukhuthaza iiseli zesikhumba ezindala, ezimdaka ngombala ukuba zijike.

IAmerican Academy of Dermatology icebisa i-glycolic acid yokutshintsha umbala.

Zama oku

Ukuchithwa kombala kunokuxhamla kwi-AHA yokusetyenziswa kwemihla ngemihla, njenge-Murad's AHA / BHA Exfoliating Cleanser. Unyango olunamandla ngakumbi lunokunceda, ngokunjalo, njengale maski ye-citric-acid evela kuMario Badescu.

7. Zinceda ekunyangeni nasekuthinteleni amabala

Unokuqhelana ne-benzoyl peroxide kunye nezinye izithako zokulwa namabala amabala anenkani. Ii-AHAs zinokunceda ekunyangeni nasekuthinteleni amaqhakuva aphindaphindiweyo.

Amabala amaqhakuva ayenzeka xa ii-pores zakho zivaliwe ngokudityaniswa kweeseli zolusu olufileyo, ioyile (sebum), kunye neebhaktiriya. Ukukhupha ngaphandle ii-AHAs kunokunceda ukukhulula nokususa i-clog. Ukusetyenziswa okuqhubekayo kunokuthintela ii-clogs ezizayo ukuba zingakheki.

Ii-AHAs zinokunciphisa ubungakanani bezinto ezandisiweyo, ezihlala zibonwa kulusu olune-acne. Ukubuya kweseli eluswini ekukhupheni i-glycolic kunye ne-lactic acid kunokunciphisa amanxeba amabala. Ezinye iimveliso zamabala zinazo nezinye ii-AHAs, ezinje nge-citric kunye ne-malic acid, ukunceda ukuthambisa ulusu oludlamkileyo.

Kwaye ii-AHAs azikho nje ebusweni bakho! Ungasebenzisa iimveliso ze-AHA kwezinye iindawo ezinamabala amnyama, kubandakanya umva kunye nesifuba.

Ngokwe-Mayo Clinic, kunokuthatha iinyanga ezimbini ukuya kwezintathu ngaphambi kokuba ubone ukuphucuka kwamabala amabala. Kubalulekile ukuba ube nomonde ngelixa iimveliso zisebenza ukunciphisa amabala ngokuhamba kwexesha. Kuya kufuneka usebenzise iimveliso ngokungaguqukiyo ukweqa unyango lwemihla ngemihla kuyenza ithathe ixesha elide ukuba izithako zisebenze.

Zama oku

Zama ijeli yokususa amabala ukususa iiseli zolusu olufileyo kunye neoyile egqithisileyo, enje ngala kaPeter Thomas Roth. Ulusu oluqhelene namabala lusenokuxhamla kwi-AHA peel, kodwa qiniseka ukuba ujonga eyenzelwe uhlobo lolusu lwakho. Zama iJuice Beauty yeGreen Apple Blemish Clearing Peel yolusu oluqhelekileyo lwamabala.

8. Banceda ukwandisa ukufakwa kwemveliso

Ukongeza kwizibonelelo zabo ezahlukileyo, ii-AHAs zinokwenza iimveliso zakho ezikhoyo zisebenze ngcono ngokwandisa ukufunxeka kwabo eluswini.

Umzekelo, ukuba uneeseli ezininzi zolusu olufileyo, isithambisi sakho semihla ngemihla sihlala phezulu ngaphandle kokuhambisa iiseli zolusu ezintsha ngaphantsi. Ii-AHAs ezinjenge-glycolic acid zinokugqobhoza olu luhlu lweeseli zolusu olufileyo, ezenza ukuba i-moisturizer yakho icofe iiseli zakho zolusu ngokufanelekileyo.

Zama oku

Ukunyusa ukufunxwa kwemveliso yemihla ngemihla ngee-AHAs, zama itoner oyisebenzisayo emva kokucoca nangaphambi kweserum yakho kunye ne-moisturizer, enjenge-Exuviance's Moisture Balance Toner.

Yimalini i-AHA efunekayo?

Njengomthetho wesithupha, iyacebisa iimveliso ze-AHA ngoxinzelelo lwe-AHA ngokubanzi olungaphantsi kwe-10 yeepesenti. Oku kunceda ukuthintela iziphumo ebezingalindelekanga ezivela kwii-AHAs.

NgokweCleveland Clinic, akufuneki usebenzise iimveliso ezingaphezulu kweepesenti ze-15 ze-AHA.

Iimveliso zokusetyenziswa kwemihla ngemihla-ezinje nge-serum, iitoners, kunye nee-moisturizers-ziqulathe ukugxila kwe-AHA esezantsi. Umzekelo, i-serum okanye i-toner inokuba ne-5% ye-AHA yoxinzelelo.

Iimveliso ezixineneyo, ezinje nge-glycolic acid peels, zisetyenziswa rhoqo ukunciphisa umngcipheko weziphumo ebezingalindelekanga.

Ngaba iziphumo ebezingalindelekanga zinokwenzeka?

Ukuba awuzange usebenzise i-AHAs ngaphambili, unokufumana iziphumo ebezingalindelekanga ezincinci ngelixa ulusu lwakho lulungelelanisa nemveliso.

Iziphumo ebezingalindelekanga zexeshana zinokubandakanya:

• ukutshisa
• ukurhawuzelela
• amadyungudyungu
• dermatitis (onokhwekhwe)

Ukunciphisa umngcipheko wokucaphuka, iklinikhi yaseCleveland icebisa ukusebenzisa iimveliso ze-AHA yonke imihla. Njengoko ulusu lwakho lubaqhela, ungaqala ukusebenzisa ii-AHA mihla le.

Kwakhona ulumke ngakumbi xa usiya elangeni. Iziphumo zokukhangela ii-AHA ezigxile kakhulu zinokwenza ulusu lwakho lubonakale ngakumbi kwimitha ye-UV emva kokusetyenziswa. Kuya kufuneka unxibe i-sunscreen yonke imihla kwaye uphinde ufake isicelo rhoqo ukuthintela ukutshiswa lilanga.

Kuya kufuneka ubonane nogqirha wakho ngaphambi kokuba uyisebenzise ukuba:

• ulusu olusandul 'ukuchetywa
• ukusika okanye ukutshisa kulusu lwakho
• rosacea
• Psoriasis
• onokhwekhwe

Abasetyhini abakhulelweyo okanye abancancisayo kufuneka babonane nogqirha ngaphambi kokusetyenziswa. Ukuba ugqirha wakho uthi kulungile ukuba usebenzise iimveliso ze-AHA, jonga into ejolise ekukhulelweni, njengeJuice Beauty's Green Apple Pregnancy Peel.

Nguwuphi umahluko phakathi kwe-AHA kunye ne-BHA?

Thelekisa ngokukhawuleza

• Zininzi ii-AHAs, ngelixa i-salicylic acid kuphela kwe-BHA.
• Ii-AHAs zinokulunga ngakumbi kwinkxalabo enxulumene nobudala besikhumba, enje ngemigca emihle kunye nemibimbi.
• Ii-BHAs zisenokuba zezona zilungileyo ukuba unolusu olubuthathaka, olunamabala amdaka.
• Ukuba unenkxalabo yesikhumba engaphezulu kwesinye, unokuzama zombini ii-AHAs kunye nee-BHAs. Qiniseka ukuba ubandakanya iimveliso ngokuthe ngcembe ukunciphisa ukucaphuka.

Enye i-asidi esetyenziswa rhoqo kwintengiso yolusu ibizwa ngokuba yi-beta-hydroxy acid (BHA). Ngokungafaniyo nee-AHAs, ii-BHAs ikakhulu zisuselwa kumthombo omnye: i-salicylic acid. Unokuyiqonda i-salicylic acid njengesixhobo esilwa namabala, kodwa ayisiyiyo yonke le nto iyenzayo.

Njengee-AHAs, i-salicylic acid inceda ukukhupha ulusu ngokususa iiseli zolusu ezifileyo. Oku kunokunceda ukucoca i-blackheads kunye ne-whiteheads ngokungavali pores ezenziwe kwiiseli zolusu ezivalelekileyo kunye neoyile kwiifollic hair.

Ii-BHAs zinokusebenza ngokuchanekileyo njenge-AHAs yamabala amabala, ukuphuculwa kokumila, kunye nokutshintsha kombala okunxulumene nelanga. I-salicylic acid nayo iyacaphukisa, enokuthi ikhetheke ukuba unolusu olubuthathaka.

Ukuba unenkxalabo yesikhumba engaphezulu kwesinye, unokuzama zombini ii-AHAs kunye nee-BHAs, kodwa kuya kufuneka ulumke. Ii-AHAs zinokulunge ngakumbi kwinkxalabo enxulumene nobudala besikhumba, ngelixa ii-BHAs zinokuba zezona zilungileyo xa unolusu olubuthathaka, olunamaqhakuva. Okokugqibela, unokucinga ngokusebenzisa ii-BHAs yonke imihla, njenge-salicylic acid toner, kwaye emva koko usebenzise i-AHA ene-peel yesikhumba seveki ngeveki ukukhupha nzulu.

Xa usebenzisa iimveliso ezininzi kulusu lwakho, kubalulekile ukuzibandakanya kwirejimeni yakho ngokuthe ngcembe. Ukusebenzisa ii-AHA ezininzi, ii-BHAs, kunye neekhemikhali kwangoko kunokubangela ukucaphuka. Ngokulandelayo, oku kunokwenza imibimbi, amabala, kunye nezinye iinkxalabo zolusu zibonakale ngakumbi.

Umgca wezantsi

Ukuba ujonge ukukhutshwa okukhulu, ke ii-AHAs zisenokuba ziimveliso ezifanelekileyo onokuthi uziqwalasele. Unokukhetha ukukhutshwa kwemihla ngemihla nge-AHA ene-serum, iitoni, kunye neekhrim, okanye wenze unyango lwe-peel olunamandla kanye okanye kabini ngeveki.

Ii-AHA ziphakathi kweemveliso zobuhle eziphandwe kakhulu ngenxa yeempembelelo zazo ezinamandla, kodwa ayizizo ezomntu wonke. Ukuba uneemeko zesikhumba esele zikho, thetha nodokotela wesikhumba okanye ingcali yokhathalelo lolusu kuqala ngaphambi kokuzama ezi ntlobo zeemveliso. Banokukunceda ufumane i-AHA efanelekileyo kuhlobo lwakho lolusu kunye neenjongo zokhathalelo lolusu.

I-AHAs ezingaphaya kwekhawuntari akufuneki zenze ubungqina besayensi bokusebenza kwazo ngaphambi kokuba zibekwe kwintengiso, ke thenga kuphela iimveliso ezivela kubavelisi obathembileyo. Unokucinga ngokufumana amandla okomelela kwi-ofisi kagqirha.