Kutheni le nto kufuneka ukhathalele malunga nokuGcinwa kweGreen-kunye nendlela yokuKuqonda oko

Umxholo

• Yintoni i-Greenwashing, ngokuchanekileyo?
• Ukunyuka kweGreenwashing
• Impembelelo yokuGcinwa kweGreenwash
• Iiflegi eziBomvu eziBanzi zoGcino-hlaziya
• 1. Ibanga ukuba "yi-100 yeepesenti ezinzileyo."
• 2. Amabango awacacanga.
• 3. Akukho zatifikethi zokuxhasa amabango.
• 4. Inkampani ichukumisa iimveliso zayo njengezinokuphinda zisetyenziswe okanye zinokuboliswa ziintsholongwane.
• Unokuba nguMthengi onoxanduva njani kwaye wenze utshintsho
• Uphengululo lwe

Nokuba uyarhawuzelelwa ukuthenga isinxibo esitsha sempahla esebenzayo okanye imveliso yobuhle entsha, usenokuqalisa ukukhangela ngoluhlu lwezinto ekufuneka ube nazo ezinde njengalowo unokuthi uzise kumthengisi ngelixa ukhangela indlu.A iperi ye-leggings yokuzivocavoca ingadinga ukuba i-squat-proof, i-sweat-wicking, i-high-waisted, i-ankle-length, kunye ne-budget. Iserum yobuso inokufuna izithako ezivunyiweyo zedermatologist, amacandelo okulwa namaqhakuva, iimpawu zokufuma, kunye nobukhulu obulungele ukuhamba ukuze ufumane indawo kwindlela yakho yesiqhelo.

Ngoku, abathengi abaninzi bajongana "nokulungileyo kokusingqongileyo" kuluhlu lwabo lweempawu ezifanelekileyo. Kuvavanyo luka-Epreli olwenziwe yiLendingTree yabantu abangaphezu kwe-1 000 baseMelika, iipesenti ezingama-55 zabaphenduli bathi bazimisele ukuhlawula ngakumbi iimveliso ezinobungozi kwindalo esingqongileyo, kunye nepesenti ezingama-41 zeminyaka eziwaka ezixeliweyo zokulahla imali eninzi kwiimveliso ezinobuhlobo kunangaphambili. Kwangelo xesha, inani elikhulayo lempahla yabathengi liqhayisa ngokuzinzileyo kwiiphakheji zabo; ngo 2018, iimveliso ezithengiswa njenge "zizinzileyo" ezenziwe 16,6 ekhulwini kwimarike, ukusuka 14,3 ekhulwini 2013, ngokutsho uphando evela kwiYunivesithi yaseNew York Stern kaThixo Centre for Business Sustainable.

Kodwa ngokuchasene naloo mzekeliso mdala, ngenxa yokuba uyayibona, oko akuthethi ukuba uyakholelwa. Njengoko umdla woluntu kwiimveliso ezinobume bendalo ukhula, kukhula njalo nokuhlamba okuluhlaza.

Yintoni i-Greenwashing, ngokuchanekileyo?

Ukubeka nje, ukuhlamba uhlaza kuxa inkampani izivelisa, ilungile, okanye inkonzo-nokuba kukwintengiso yayo, ukupakisha, okanye isitetimenti semishini- njengezinefuthe elihle kwindalo esingqongileyo kunokuba kunjalo, utshilo u-Ashlee Piper, uzinzo ingcaphephe kunye nombhali we Nika iSh*t: Yenza Okulungileyo. Phila ngcono. Gcina iPlanethi. (Thenga, $15, amazon.com). “[Kwenziwe] ziinkampani zeoyile, iimveliso zokutya, iimpawu zempahla, iimveliso zobuhle, izongezo,” utshilo. "Iyakhohlisa - ikuyo yonke indawo."

I-Case in point: Uhlalutyo lwe-2009 lweemveliso ze-2,219 eNyakatho Melika eyenza "amabango aluhlaza" - kubandakanywa impilo kunye nobuhle, ikhaya, kunye nemveliso yokucoca - ifumene ukuba i-98 ekhulwini yayinetyala lokuhlaza. Izinto zokuthambisa zamazinyo zathathwa njengazo zonke "izinto zendalo" kunye "nezinto eziphilayo eziqinisekisiweyo" ngaphandle kobungqina bokuzixhasa, iziponji zazibizwa ngokuba "zilungile emhlabeni," kunye nezinto zokuthambisa zomzimba zibizwa ngokuba "'zicocekile ngokwendalo" -igama abathengi abaninzi abazicingela ngalo kuthetha "ukukhuseleka" okanye "okuluhlaza," okungasoloko kunjalo, ngokophando.

Kodwa ngaba ezi ngxelo ziyinyani? Apha, iingcali ziqhekeza impembelelo yokuhlamba uhlaza kuzo zombini iinkampani kunye nabathengi, kunye nokuba benze ntoni xa uyibona.

Ukunyuka kweGreenwashing

Ngombulelo kwi-intanethi, imithombo yeendaba zentlalo, kunye nendlela yakudala yokunxibelelana ngomlomo, abathengi kwiminyaka yakutshanje bafundiswe ngakumbi ngemicimbi yezendalo nezentlalo ezinxulumene nemveliso yezinto zabathengi, utshilo uTara St. James, umseki we Re: Umthombo(d), iqonga lokucebisana lozinzo lweqhinga, ikhonkco lobonelelo, kunye nempahla yelaphu ngaphakathi kushishino lwefashoni. Omnye wemicimbi enjalo: Unyaka nonyaka, umzi mveliso wempahla eyolukiweyo, ekuveliswa kuyo iimpahla emele phantse isibini kwisithathu, ixhomekeke kwiitoni ezingama-98 ezigidi zezixhobo ezingavuselelekiyo- ezifana neoyile, izichumisi, kunye neekhemikhali- kwimveliso. Kule nkqubo, i-1.2 yezigidi zezigidi zeetoni zegesi ekhulayo ikhutshelwa emoyeni, ngaphezulu kwazo zonke iinqwelomoya kunye nokuhanjiswa kolwandle kudityanisiwe, ngokwe-Ellen MacArthur Foundation, umbutho wesisa ojolise ekukhawuleziseni inguqu kuqoqosho lwenkunkuma esezantsi. (Eso sesinye nje isizathu sokuba kubaluleke kangaka ukuthenga iimpahla ezisebenzayo ezizinzileyo.)

Oku kuvuselwa kutsha kukhuthaze ibango elonyukayo leemveliso ezenziwe kakuhle kunye neemodeli zeshishini, ezazicingelwa ziinkampani ekuqaleni ukuba ziya kuba yinto yexeshana, ichaza. Kodwa ezo zibikezelo zavakala zibubuxoki, utshilo uSt.

Oko kudityaniswa kwemfuno yabathengi ephezulu yeemveliso ezi-eco-friendly kunye ne-brand 'funeke ngokukhawuleza ukuba ibe nozinzo-intsingiselo yokwenza kunye nokuvelisa ngendlela engayi kuphelisa umhlaba kunye nabemi bemithombo yayo - idale into ebizwa ngokuba yiSt. isaqhwithi "sokuhlanjwa okuluhlaza. Iinkampani ngoku zazifuna ukungena kwi-bandwagon kodwa mhlawumbi zazingazi ukuba zenze njani, okanye zazingafuni ukutyala ixesha kunye nezixhobo ukwenza utshintsho oluyimfuneko, utshilo. "Ngoko baye bamkela ezi ndlela zokunxibelelana nezinto abazenzayo, nangona zisenokungazenzi." Umzekelo, inkampani yempahla esebenzayo inokubiza i-leggings "izinzileyo" nangona izinto zineepesenti ezi-5 zepolyester esetyenzisiweyo kwaye iveliswe amawaka eekhilomitha ukusuka apho ithengiswa khona, inyusa umgangatho wekhabhoni wengubo nangakumbi. Uphawu lobuhle lusenokuthi imilebe yalo yomlomo okanye izithambiso zomzimba ezenziwe ngezinto zezinto eziphilayo "zinobuhlobo" nangona ziqulathe ioyile yesundu- enegalelo ekutshatyalalisweni kwamahlathi, ekutshatyalalisweni kweendawo zokuhlala zezilwanyana ezisengozini, kunye nongcoliseko lomoya.

Kwezinye iimeko, i-greenwashing yenkampani icacile kwaye inenjongo, kodwa ixesha elininzi, iSt. Kwimveliso yefashoni, umzekelo, uyilo, ukuvelisa, kunye nokuthengisa kunye namasebe okuthengisa athambekele ekusebenzeni ngokwahlukeneyo, okuninzi kokuthatha izigqibo akwenzeki xa onke amaqela esegumbini elinye, utshilo. Kwaye oku kuqhawulwa kunokudala imeko ekhangeleka kakhulu njengomdlalo ophukileyo wefowuni. "Ulwazi lunokuthi luhlanjululwe okanye lusetyenziswe kakubi ukusuka kwelinye iqela ukuya kwelinye, kwaye ngelixa lifika kwisebe lezentengiso, umyalezo wangaphandle awufani ncam nendlela oqale ngayo, nokuba uvela kwisebe lokuzinza okanye isebe loyilo," Utsho uSt. "Kwelinye icala, isebe lezentengiso lisenokungakuqondi oko kunxibelelana nabo ngaphandle, okanye batshintsha imiyalezo ukuyenza ibe 'nencasa' ngakumbi kule nto bacinga ukuba umthengi ufuna ukuyiva."

Eyona nto ibangela ingxaki kukuba akukho nto ingako yongameleyo. Izikhokelo eziluhlaza zeKhomishini yoRhwebo yeFederal zibonelela ngesikhokelo malunga nendlela abathengisi abanokukuphepha ngayo ukwenza amabango okusingqongileyo "angenabulungisa okanye akhohlisayo" phantsi kweCandelo 5 lomThetho we-FTC; Nangona kunjalo, bagqitywa ukuhlaziywa ngo-2012 kwaye abajonganga nokusetyenziswa kwamagama "azinzileyo" kunye "nendalo." I-FTC inokufaka isikhalazo ukuba umthengisi wenza amabango alahlekisayo (cinga: ukuthetha into ethile iqinisekisiwe ngumntu wesithathu ukuba ayinayo okanye ibiza imveliso ngokuthi "i-ozone-friendly," ebonisa ngokungachanekanga ukuba imveliso ikhuselekile Umoya wonke). Kodwa zizikhalazo ezili-19 kuphela ezifayilweyo ukusukela ngo-2015, zine-11 kuphela kubuhle, ezempilo nakwimizi-mveliso yefashoni.

Impembelelo yokuGcinwa kweGreenwash

Ukubiza umphezulu wokuzilolonga "ozinzileyo" okanye ukubeka amagama athi "yonke yendalo" kwipakethe ye-moisturizer yobuso inokubonakala ngathi yi-NBD, kodwa ukuhlamba eluhlaza kuyingxaki kuzo zombini iinkampani kunye nabathengi. "Idala ukungathembani phakathi kwabathengi kunye neempawu, kwaye ke ezo zinto ziyenzayo zibanga ukuba ziyenza ngoku zijongwa ngendlela efanayo nezo zingenzi nto," utshilo uSt. "Emva koko abathengi abayi kuthemba nantoni na - amabango eziqinisekiso, amabango oxanduva lokubonelela, amabango okuzinza ngokwenene - kwaye ngoko ke kwenza kube nzima ngakumbi utshintsho olunokwenzeka kwishishini." (Eyeleleneyo: Iimpahla ezili-11 eziZinzileyo zeZinxibo eziFanayo zokophula ukubila ngaphakathi)

Ungayichazanga eyokugqibela, ubeka umthwalo kumthengi ukuba enze uphando ngophawu lwentengiso ukuze afumanise ukuba izibonelelo zokusingqongileyo ziyanceda na, utsho uPiper. “Kwabo bethu bafuna ngokwenene ukuvota ngedola yethu, eyona nto ibalulekileyo esinokuyenza njengabantu, yenza kube nzima ukwenza olu khetho lulungileyo,” utshilo. Kwaye ngokungazi ngokuthenga iimveliso ezivela kwi-brand enetyala lokuhlamba i-greenwashing, "ubenza bakwazi ukuqhubeka nokuhlanjululwa kwe-greenwashing kunye nodaka lwamanzi oluzinzileyo kunye nenkxaso yakho yemali," wongezelela uSt. (Olunye ukhetho olulungileyo onokulwenza ngedola yakho: Ukuyityala kumashishini amancinci.)

Iiflegi eziBomvu eziBanzi zoGcino-hlaziya

Ukuba ujonge imveliso enamabango anokuba ngumzobo, ungatsho ngokubanzi ukuba ihlaziywe luhlaza ukuba ubona enye yezi flegi zibomvu. Unokujonga kwakhona kwi-Remake engenzi nzuzo okanye i-app elungile kuwe, zombini ezikala iibrendi zefashoni ngokusekelwe kuzinzo lwezenzo zazo.

Kwaye ukuba awuqinisekanga okanye ufuna nje ulwazi oluthe kratya, ungoyiki ukubuza kunye nokucela umngeni kwinkampani malunga nokwenza kwabo (ngemithombo yeendaba zentlalo, nge-imeyile, okanye ngeposi yenkumba) -kuba kuyabuza ukuba ngubani owenze umdlalo wakho kwaye phi okanye Inani elichanekileyo leplastikhi ehlaziyiweyo eya kwibhotile yakho yokuhlamba ubuso, utshilo uSt. “Ayikokukhomba ngeminwe okanye ukubeka ityala, kodwa ifuna uxanduva lokuphendula kunye nokungafihli nto kwiimpawu kunye nokuxhobisa abathengi ukuba bazi ngakumbi malunga nendlela izinto ezenziwe ngayo kunye nalapho zenziwe khona, "ucacisa.

1. Ibanga ukuba "yi-100 yeepesenti ezinzileyo."

Xa kukho ixabiso lamanani elincanyathiselwe kwibango lemveliso, inkonzo, okanye ukuzinza kwenkampani, kukho ithuba elihle lokuba ihlanjwe ngohlaza, utsho uSt. "Akukho pesenti malunga nozinzo kuba ukuzinza ayisiyinga - ligama eliqhelekileyo leendlela ezahlukeneyo zobuchule," uyacacisa. Khumbula, uzinzo lubandakanya ukutshintsha kwemicimbi ejikeleze intlalontle, abasebenzi, ukubandakanywa, inkunkuma kunye nokusetyenziswa, kwaye okusingqongileyo, okwenza ukuba kungenzeki ukulinganisa, utshilo.

2. Amabango awacacanga.

Amazwi angacacanga anjengathi “enziwe ngezinto ezizinzileyo” okanye “enziwe ngezinto ezihlaziyiweyo” ashicilelwe ngenkalipho kwiithegi zempahla ezijingiwe (iplastiki okanye iphepha oyikhululayo impahla emva kokuba uyithengile) akwasisizathu sokulumkisa, utsho uSt. "Ngokukodwa ukuba ujonga iimpahla ezisebenzayo, kubalulekile ukuba ungajongi nje kwinto ethi i-hang tag ithini kuba inokuthi" yenziwe kwiibhotile zeplastikhi ezenziwe ngokutsha, "kwaye oko kubonakala kuyinto entle," utshilo. "Kodwa xa ujonga ileyibheli yokhathalelo, isenokuthi iipesenti ezintlanu ziphinde zenziwe zasebenza ipholiyesta kunye neepesenti ezingama-95.

Okufanayo kuya kumagama abanzi afana "luhlaza," "indalo," "icocekile," "i-eco-friendly," "ukwazi," kunye "nendalo," yongeza uPiper. "Ndicinga ukuba ubona ngeemveliso zobuhle ezinye iinkampani [ezizithengisa njenge] 'nobuhle obucocekileyo' - oko kunokuthetha ukuba zimbalwa iikhemikhali zokubeka emzimbeni wakho, kodwa oko akuthethi ukuba inkqubo yokuvelisa okanye ukupakishwa yi-eco -umhlobo, uyachaza. (Eyeleleneyo: Uthini Umahluko phakathi kweeMveliso ezicocekileyo kunye nezoBubuhle beNdalo?)

3. Akukho zatifikethi zokuxhasa amabango.

Ukuba i-activewear brand ithi impahla yabo yenziwe kwi-90 yepesenti yomqhaphu we-organic okanye uphawu lobuhle lizichaza ukuba li-100 ekhulwini le-carbon neutral ngaphandle kokubonelela naluphi na ubungqina bokuxhasa, thatha loo mabango ngokhozo lwetyuwa. Eyona nto ukubheja kwakho kukuqinisekisa ukuba ezi ntetho ziyinyani kukujonga ukuqinisekiswa kweqela lesithathu, utshilo uSt.

Ngempahla eyenziwe ngomqhaphu wendalo kunye neminye imicu yendalo, uSt. Esi satifikethi siqinisekisa ukuba amalaphu enziwe ngobuncinci be-70 yeepesenti zemicu eqinisekisiweyo ye-organic kunye nemigangatho ethile yokusingqongileyo kunye nemigangatho yabasebenzi iyahlangatyezwa ngexesha lokusetyenzwa kunye nokuveliswa. Ngokubhekisele kwimpahla equlathe izinto ezihlaziyiweyo, uPiper ucebisa ngokujonga isiQinisekiso seNdalo esiQinisekisiweyo seNdalo kunye nesirisayikilishwe esivela e-Ecocert, inkampani eqinisekisa ipesenti ngqo yezinto ezisetyenzisiweyo kwilaphu kwaye apho ifunyenwe khona, kunye namanye amabango okusingqongileyo anokuthi enze ( cinga: ipesenti yokonga amanzi okanye ukonga i-CO2).

Izatifikethi zoRhwebo oluLungileyo, ezinje ngeLungelo lokuQinisekiswa koRhwebo oluLungileyo kwi-Fair Trade USA, ziya kuqinisekisa ukuba iimpahla zakho zenziwe kwimizi-mveliso ezinikezela ekugcineni imigangatho yezabasebenzi eyamkelweyo kwilizwe liphela, ukubonelela ngenzuzo enkulu kubasebenzi, ukwenza iinzame zokukhusela nokubuyisela okusingqongileyo kunye Qhubeka usebenza ngokucocekileyo (aka konakalisi kangako) kwimveliso. Kwiimveliso zobuhle, i-Ecocert nayo inesiqinisekiso sezinto zokuthambisa ze-organic kunye nezendalo ezibizwa ngokuba yi-COSMOS eqinisekisa imveliso ehambelana nokusingqongileyo kunye nokulungiswa, ukusetyenziswa ngokufanelekileyo kwemithombo yendalo, ukungabikho kwezithako zepetrochemical, kunye nokunye.

I-FTR, uninzi lweemveliso ezineziqinisekiso zokusingqongileyo ziya kufuna ukuziqhayisa, utshilo uPiper. "Bazakubonakala ngokucacileyo ngayo, ngakumbi ngoba zonke izatifikethi zinokubiza kakhulu ukufumana kunye nokuthatha ixesha elininzi, ke baya kuba nabo ngokuzingca ekupakishweni kwabo," uyacacisa. Nangona kunjalo, ezi ziqinisekiso zinokubiza kwaye zihlala zifuna ixesha elininzi kunye namandla okufaka isicelo, nto leyo enokwenza kube nzima kumashishini amancinci ukuba afumane amanqaku, utshilo uPiper. Kulapho kubalulekile ukuba ufikelele kwi-brand kwaye ubuze malunga namabango abo, izixhobo kunye nezithako. "Ukuba ubuza umbuzo ukuzama ukufumana impendulo malunga nokuzinza kwaye bakunika i-legalese engaqhelekanga njengempendulo okanye kubonakala ngathi abawuphenduli umbuzo wakho, ndingafudukela kwinkampani eyahlukileyo."

4. Inkampani ichukumisa iimveliso zayo njengezinokuphinda zisetyenziswe okanye zinokuboliswa ziintsholongwane.

Ngelixa uSt.James engayi kude athi imveliso eqhayisa ngokusebenza kwayo ngokutsha okanye i-biodegradability inetyala lokuhlamba okuluhlaza, yinto ekufuneka uyiqaphele xa uthenga i-polyester esetyenzisiweyo yengubo esebenzayo okanye ingqayi yeplastiki ye-cream yokuguga. “Kunegalelo kuluvo lokuba uphawu lunoxanduva ngakumbi kunokuba lunjalo,” uyacacisa. "Kwithiyori, mhlawumbi izinto ezisetyenzisiweyo kule bhatyi zinokuphinda zisebenze kwakhona, kodwa umthengi uzisebenzisa njani ngokwenene? ​​Zeziphi iinkqubo ezikhoyo kwingingqi yakho? Ukuba ndinyanisekile kuwe, akuninzi."

I-ICYDK, sisiqingatha kuphela sabantu baseMelika abanofikelelo oluzenzekelayo ekusetyenzisweni kwakhona kwe-curbside kwaye yiipesenti ezingama-21 kuphela ezinokufikelela kwiinkonzo zokuyeka, ngokweProjekthi yokurisayikilisha. Nokuba iinkonzo zokurisayikilisha zikhona, izinto ezinokuphinda zisetyenziselwe ukuphinda zisetyenziselwe ukungcoliseka (cinga: iindiza zeplastiki kunye neebhegi, izitya zokutya) kunye nezitya zokutya ezimdaka. Kwezo meko, iibhetshi ezinkulu zezinto (kubandakanya izinto ezithi unako recycled) iphele itshisiwe, ithunyelwe kwiindawo zokulahla inkunkuma, okanye ihlanjwe elwandle, ngokweSikolo seMozulu saseColumbia. TL; DR: Ukulahla isikhongozeli sakho esingenanto sesithambiso emgqomeni oluhlaza akuthethi ngokuzenzekelayo ukuba sizophulwa kwaye siguqulwe sibe yinto entsha.

Ngokufanayo, imveliso "enokuvuthwa" okanye "i-biodegradable" unako ibengcono kwimo engqongileyo phantsi kweemeko ezifanelekileyo, kodwa uninzi lwabantu alufikeleli kwi-compost kamasipala, utsho uPiper. "[Imveliso] iya kulahla inkunkuma, kunye neendawo zokulahla inkunkuma zaziwa njenge ndlala yeoksijini kunye neentsholongwane kunye nokukhanya kwelanga, zonke izinto eziyimfuneko kwinto ebolayo ukuba ibole," ucacisa. Singasathethi ke, ibeka uxanduva lwempembelelo yokusingqongileyo yemveliso kumthengi, ngoku kufuneka acinge indlela yokulahla imveliso yabo xa sele ifikelele esiphelweni sobomi bayo, utsho uSt. "Umthengi akufuneki abenoxanduva- ndicinga ukuba kufuneka ibe luphawu," utshilo. (Jonga: Uyenza njani iBin yomgquba)

Unokuba nguMthengi onoxanduva njani kwaye wenze utshintsho

Emva kokubona ezinye zeempawu zokubalisa iseti yemidlalo okanye ishampu icocwa iluhlaza, inyathelo elifanelekileyo lokuthatha iya kuba kukuthintela ukuthenga loo mveliso de inkampani itshintshe iindlela zayo, utshilo uSt. "Ndicinga ukuba izinto ezilungileyo esinokuzenza kukulamba ezo mveliso zemali zethu," wongeza uPiper. "Ukuba uziva unomdla kakhulu kwaye unexesha kunye ne-bandwidth, kuyafaneleka ukuba ubhale ileta emfutshane okanye i-imeyile kumlawuli wenkampani wozinzo okanye uxanduva loluntu kwi-LinkedIn." Kulo nqaku likhawulezayo, chaza ukuba uyathandabuza amabango e-brand kwaye ubize kuwo ukuba unikeze ulwazi oluchanekileyo, utsho uSt.

Kodwa ukuthenga iimveliso ezinyanisekileyo ze-eco kunye nokuthintela ii-dupes ayisiyiyo kuphela-okanye eyona nto iyiyo-onokuyenza ukunciphisa umkhondo wakho. "Eyona nto inoxanduva umthengi anokuyenza, ngaphandle kokuthenga nantoni na, kukuyigcina kakuhle, ukuyigcina ixesha elide, kwaye uqiniseke ukuba idlulisiwe- ayilahlwa okanye ithunyelwe kwiindawo zokulahla inkunkuma, utshilo uSt.

Kwaye ukuba uphantsi kwaye uyakwazi ukwenza imaski yakho yeenwele ukusuka ekuqaleni okanye ukoyike iimpahla zakho ezisebenzayo, nokuba ngcono, yongeza iPiper. “Ngelixa kumnandi ukuba abantu bafuna ukuthenga ngokuzinzileyo, eyona nto ingcono sinokuyenza kukuthenga izinto ezisetyenzisiweyo okanye singazithengi izinto,” utshilo. "Akunyanzelekanga ukuba uwele emgibeni wokuba uthenge indlela yakho yokuzinza kuba ayisosisombululo sodwa."

Uphengululo lwe