Kutheni kufuneka wongeze iLactic, iCitric, kunye nezinye iiAcids kwiRegimen yakho yokhathalelo lwesikhumba

Umxholo

• Iindidi zeMandelic
• Lactic acid
• Ialidi Acid
• IAzelaic Acid
• IPhytic Acid
• Iasidi yeTartaric
• Icitric acid
• Ukudityaniswa okugqwesileyo
• Uphengululo lwe

Xa i-glycolic acid yaziswa kwii-1990s zakuqala, yayiyinguqulelo kukhathalelo lolusu. Eyaziwa ngokuba yi-alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), yayisisithako sokuqala esisebenzayo onokuthi usisebenzise ekhaya ukukhawulezisa ukuthotywa kweeseli ezifileyo kunye nokutyhila ulusu olutsha, olugudileyo, oluphuphumayo ngaphantsi. Emva kwexesha safunda ukuba isiphumo seswekile sinokuvuselela imveliso yesikhumba sakho se-collagen.

Emva koko kwafika i-salicylic acid, i-beta hydroxy acid (BHA) enokuthi inyibilikise i-sebum buildup nzulu ngaphakathi kwe-pores kwaye isebenze njengokuchasana nokudumba, iyenze ilunge ngombala obomvu, ocaphukisayo, nolusu olunamafutha. (Bona: Ngaba i-Salicylic Acid Ngokwenene ingummangaliso weZithako zamabala?) Ngenxa yoko, i-glycolic acid yaba ngumgangatho wegolide wokuthintela ukwaluphala kunye ne-salicylic acid yaba yinto yokulwa induna. Oko kuhlala kungatshintshanga kude kube kutshanje.

Ngoku ezinye iimveliso zokhathalelo lolusu zineeasidi ezingaziwayo kangako njenge mandelic, phytic, tartaric, kunye nelactic. Kutheni kusongezwa? "Ndicinga nge-glycolic kunye ne-salicylic acid njengabadlali abakhokelayo kumdlalo kunye nezinye ii-asidi njengesixhobo sokuxhasa. Xa bonke besebenza kunye, banokuphucula imveliso," utshilo. Ubume Ilungu leBrain Trust lilungu uNeal Schultz, MD, ugqirha wesikhumba eNew York.

Aba badlali baxhasayo baphucula ukusebenza ngenxa yezizathu ezibini. Okokuqala, ngelixa uninzi lweeasidi zinceda ekukhupheni, "nganye yenza okungenani into eyongezelelekileyo eluncedo kulusu," utshilo ugqirha wesikhumba we-NYC uDennis Gross, MD Oku kubandakanya ukonyusa i-hydration, ukulwa neeradicals zasimahla, kunye nokunceda ukuzinzisa ifomula ukuze ihlale ixesha elide. (Inxulumene: 5 Izithako zokhathalelo lolusu ezilahla isikhumba esimdaka kwaye zikuncede ukuba ukhanye ngaphakathi) Isizathu sesibini kukuba ukusebenzisa ii-asidi ezininzi kwindawo yoxinaniso esezantsi (endaweni yento kwindawo ephezulu) kunokwenza ukuba ifomula ingacaphukisi. "Endaweni yokongeza iasidi enye kwiipesenti ezingama-20, ndikhetha ukongeza iiasidi ezine kwiipesenti ezi-5 ukufezekisa iziphumo ezifanayo namathuba amancinci okubangela ubomvu," utshilo uGqirha Gross. (I-FYI, indibaniselwano yeeacids ngumlingo osemva koNyawo lwaBantwana.)

Ke zeziphi izibonelelo ezithe ngqo ezinikezelwa ngaba bafikayo? Siyayiphula:

Iindidi zeMandelic

Le yimolekyuli enkulu kakhulu, ngenxa yoko ayingeni ngokunzulu kulusu. UGqr. Gross uthi: "Oko kwenza ukuba kube ngcono kwiintlobo ezinobuthathaka kuba ukungena okunzulu kuthetha umngcipheko omncinci wokucaphuka. URenée Rouleau, i-esthetician edumileyo e-Austin, uthi le AHA inokunceda "ukucinezela ukuveliswa kwe-pigment engaphezulu." Ngomqolomba omnye. "I-asidi ye-Mandelic inceda ukuphucula i-exfoliation kunye nokunciphisa umngcipheko wokucaphuka xa idibene ne-glycolic, i-lactic, okanye i-salicylic, kodwa mhlawumbi akwanele ukuba umdlali wamandla abe khona kwimveliso yodwa."

Lactic acid

Kudala ikhona-uCleopatra wasebenzisa ubisi olonakeleyo kwiibhafu zakhe malunga ne-40 BCE ngenxa yokuba ubisi lwendalo lwe-lactic acid lwanceda ukushenxa ulusu olurhabaxa-kodwa akakaze alufumane udumo lwenqanaba le-glycolic kuba ayomelelanga kangako, enokuba lulutho. intle into. I-Lactic yimolekyuli enkulu, ngoko ke yeyona ndlela isebenzayo kwiintlobo ezibuthathaka, kwaye ngokungafaniyo ne-mandelic, inamandla ngokwaneleyo ukuba ngumdlali okhokelayo kwimveliso. UGqirha Gross ucacisa ukuba i-lactic acid ikwanxibelelene nolusu oluphezulu kwaye iyayivuselela ukuba yenze iiceramide, enceda ukugcina ukufuma ngaphakathi nokucaphukisa. (Ukhe weva malunga ne-lactic acid malunga nokudinwa kwemisipha kunye nokubuyiselwa.)

Ialidi Acid

Ukutyalwa kuqala kwiiapile, le AHA ibonelela ngezibonelelo ezifanayo zokuguga njenge-lactic acid, kodwa "ithambile kakhulu," utshilo uDebra Jaliman, MD, ugqirha wesikhumba weSixeko saseNew York. Xa idityaniswe njengesithako esixhasayo kwifomula equlathe iiasidi ezinamandla ezifana ne-lactic, glycolic, kunye ne-salicylic, inceda ukukhutshwa ngobunono kunye nokukhuthaza i-ceramide.

IAzelaic Acid

Nokuba i-AHA okanye i-BHA, i-azelaic acid, evela kwingqolowa, irye, okanye irhasi, "ineepropathi zokulwa neentsholongwane kunye nokuchasana, ukuyenza ukuba isebenze njengonyango lwe-acne okanye i-rosacea," utshilo uJeremy Brauer, MD, ugqirha wesikhumba waseNew York . Ziphatha zombini ngokuhla ziye kwiifollic, zibulale nayiphi na intsholongwane ngaphakathi kwazo kwaye icime ukudumba okubangelwa lusulelo. I-azelaic acid nayo "ingamisa ukwenziwa kwe-melanin engaphezulu ejongene namabala amnyama, amabala amdaka, kunye neendawo ezingalinganiyo kulusu," utshilo uGqirha Jaliman. Kufanelekile ukuba ulusu lube mnyama (ngokungafaniyo nehydroquinone kunye nezinye ii-lasers) kuba akukho bungozi be-hypo- okanye i-hyperpigmentation, kwaye yamkelwe kwabasetyhini abakhulelweyo nabancancisayo. Yinto enkulu leyo kuba "abasetyhini abaninzi banemiba ye-melasma kunye nokuqhambuka malunga nokukhulelwa," utshilo uGqr. Jaliman. (Nantsi indlela yokukhupha ithoni yesikhumba sakho ngonyango lwe-laser kunye namaxolo.)

IPhytic Acid

Enye i-asidi engeyiyo i-AHA okanye i-BHA, le nto yangaphandle yi-antioxidant, ngoko inceda ukukhubaza i-radicals yamahhala yolusu. Inokuthintela amabala amnyama kunye nokuncipha pores. U-Phytic acid usebenza ngokuhambisa i-calcium, eyaziwa kakubi ngolusu, utshilo uGqirha Gross. "I-calcium iguqula ioli yesikhumba sakho kwi-fluid ibe yi-wax, kwaye i-wax e-thicker eyakha ngaphakathi kwe-pores, ekhokelela kumnyama omnyama kunye nokwelula ii-pores ukuze zibonakale zikhulu." (Yiyo yonke le nto kufuneka uyazi malunga nokulahla iintloko ezimnyama.)

Iasidi yeTartaric

Le AHA ivela kwiidiliya ezivundisiweyo kwaye yongezwa kwi-glycolic okanye i-lactic acid formulas ukuqinisa ukuthoba kwabo. Kodwa inzuzo yayo ephambili kukukwazi ukulawula inqanaba le-pH yefomula. "I-Acids yaziwa ngokuba yi-morphing pHs, kwaye ukuba inyuka kakhulu okanye iphantsi kakhulu kwimveliso, iziphumo kukucaphuka kolusu," utshilo uRouleau. "I-Tartaric acid inokunceda ukugcina izinto zizinzile." (Eyeleleneyo: Izinto ezi-4 ezi-Sneaky eziphosa ulusu lwakho kwi-Balance)

Icitric acid

Ifana ne-tartaric, i-citric acid, i-AHA efumaneka ikakhulu kwiilamuni kunye ne-lime, ikwagcina ezinye ii-asidi kuluhlu olukhuselekileyo lwe-pH. Ukongeza, isebenza njengesigcinakaliso, esenza ukuba iifomula zokhathalelo lwesikhumba zihlale zintsha ixesha elide. Okokugqibela, i-citric acid yi-chelator, oko kuthetha ukuba isusa ukungcola okungafunekiyo (ukusuka emoyeni, emanzini, nakwizinyithi ezinzima) kulusu. UGqirha Gross uthi: "I-citric acid ibambelela kwezi zinto zingcolileyo ukuze zingangeni kulusu lwakho." "Ndiyathanda ukucinga ngayo njengePac-Man yesikhumba." (PS kuya kufuneka ufunde kwi-microbiome yolusu lwakho.)

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Uphengululo lwe